Paris’s 19th district I feel is sometimes misunderstood. It’s a big district, so this is split into two parts. Part one is the Eastern 19th. (Western 19th will come later on)

The 19th arrondissement is the home of Place des Fêtes, Jourdain, the Quartier d’Amérique and La Villette as well as many other unique- and sometimes forgotten- places. In case you’re a bit unsure of where the 19th is, it spans the northeastern Parisian limits. It is such a charming and different area. I started to fall in love with it while roaming around. It almost feels untouched by the cliché mob of tourism that often takes over Paris.

The whole adventure started with a view looking down on Paris through rue de Belleville from Pyrénées (line 11), where Annie and I met up one cold and rainy Saturday. From there we wandered north on rue de Bellville into the midst of the 19th’s treasures. Once we got up by Télégraphe we went due north on Rue du Docteur Potain to find the Mouzaïa Villas that are hidden up by the périph behind Place des Fêtes. Sure enough, heading eastwards on Rue de Mouzaïa brings you right to the bottom of the most precious streets packed with pastel-coloured duplexes on both sides. It was so incredibly picturesque. Ever so kindly, a man saw us awing over the adorableness of the houses and he chatted about the area and how pleasant it was to live there- and of course full of history. I would love to have a neighbor like him! I have had issues finding information on Le Quartier d’Amérique’s history, but all I can say is is that it has the most interesting yet flawless combination of architecture.

From the villas we looped around between the towers to Place des Fêtes, which that particular Saturday had an antique market/garage sale. It was busy and exciting as everyone was out and about. From here, you’d only be a short walk to Parc Butte Chaumont, which I find to be one of Paris’s best kept secrets. Of course the 19th reaches Paris’s limits at Parc de la Villette as well, which is whole other ballgame of adventures. (You’ll see both of these places in Part 2!)

While roaming this area,  I felt as if I was not in Paris for a short second… but then I realized that maybe people have an incorrect vision or cliché expectation of the city as a whole. Paris is a puzzle of unique and diverse sectors. Each arrondissement has it’s own little twist. Sometimes you’ve got to branch out from the center to experience it all.

. . . . .

Some random suggestions in the 19th:

Aux Bons Amis – Bar/Restaurant – Belleville

BarOurcq – Bar – Laumière

Butte Chaumont – Park – Laumière

Cabaret Sauvage – Concert Venue – Porte de Pantin

L’heure Bleue – Restaurant – Botzaris

La Faitout – Snack – Belleville

La Géode – Cinéma – Corentin Cariou

La Rotonde – Bar/Venue – Place Stalingrad

Le 104 – Art Center/Venue – Crimée

Les Mère Veilleuses – Bar – Pré Saint Gervais

Les 400 Coups – Restaurant/Bar – Jourdain

Rosa Bonheur – Restaurant/Guinguette – Botzaris

Zoé Bouillon – Restaurant – Butte Chaumont

Comments

11 Comments

  1. February 17, 2012

    beautiful france <3

  2. February 19, 2012

    absolutely must visit the 19th…I’ve been ignoring it for too long…

    • Meg #
      February 19, 2012

      Yes! Go for a spin! You won’t regret it!

  3. February 22, 2012

    Hi Meg! I found you on Yelp today and came to check out your blog. I happened on this post and got really excited. I have been living in the 19th for just over three-and-a-half years, and you captured some of the nicest spots in it. What’s really funny is that eighth photo up there, the one with the “V” fingers (peace sign) — that’s right at rue Olivier Metra where I pick up the boy I babysit from school. It’s a near-daily view for me as is the Place des Fêtes métro station. It’s fun to see the view in a blog post! I live closer to La Villette, near rue de Meaux, not far from the Marché Secrétan. I have really come to love and appreciate this area so very much, and I am glad that you have enjoyed the area, too.

    I read back on a couple of other posts, too — I am also from Denver. :) Went to Green Mountain High School back in the 80s and graduated at Red Rocks, like so many from schools in the Jeffco school district in that area do. I liked seeing your pics of Morrison — my dad lived there for several years back in the 90s. We regularly went to the Morrison Inn for margs and burritos. Gosh that makes me hungry thinking about it! It’s nice to meet a “homey” living in Paris. ;-)

    I’m going to follow so I can catch your next post on the 19th, and I am really glad I ran into your profile and blog today, Meg.

    Take care!
    Karin
    (an alien parisienne)

    • Meg #
      February 23, 2012

      Karin!
      What brings you to Paris? I’d love to hear your story. I’m class of ’08 at Columbine. I feel like I’ve met so many people from Colorado in Paris— I love it! The 19th is such a wonderful area. I hope you’ll tune in for round 2- and if you have any places to add to my lost please do! Have a lovely day and come back to dqpet soon!
      Cheers!

      • February 25, 2012

        Hello again! Briefly — my best friend’s oldest friend, whom I first met when he came to visit my friend in Denver when I was 17, married a Parisian woman back in 1992. A couple of kids, a divorce, and the advance of the Internet and blogs later, we reconnected and wound up together, with me moving here. More of the story is on my blog.

        My dad lived right near CHS back in 2006-2009. :) Yes, know the school well, not only because of, well, you know, but also because the floor plan of Columbine was exactly like GMHS! They were built at the same time and with the same plans. I know that changes happened since they were built, but back in the mid-80s they were just about the same. It was weird going there to visit for sports meets (gymnastics, etc) and have it look just the same… but not!

        I’ll definitely be back for Round 2. :) I’m getting your updates via email! A couple of things I would add to the list are the Quai de Loire and Quai de Seine MK2 movie theaters — I love going to films there. And the Parc de la Villette, of course. Also, the La Grande Halle exhibition space at the southern entrance to the Parc– there is a really nice bookshop there. Perhaps the Cité de la Musique, too. It’s an interesting museum. Different than any other in Paris.

        See you ’round the bloghood, Meg. :)
        Karin

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